Albers - Review - De Beauvoir - London - The Infatuation

"In the corner of Albers is a tasteful wooden newspaper rack. There’s a Mirror, there’s an FT, there may well be a Telegraph too. Although we suspect De Beauvoir locals will lean more towards The Observer hanging on the front. The point is, this all-day cafe and modern European restaurant is a people-pleaser. Come by at just past 8am and you can get a bulbous croissant alongside your flat white, or log off for an hour at lunch and sit down with a juicy (but not entirely exciting) pork belly bap smothered in apple sauce. The small, clean-cut dining room is perma-filled with families, wistful-looking solo readers, and the kind of people who like the sound of a tarted-up ham, egg, and chips. At night, the lights dim and Chic is turned up (but not too much) while friends sip £5 Negronis in the tasteful, wood-clad room, and dates interrogate another London sharing plates menu. That said, there’s something comforting in Albers’ approach. Not breaking boundaries, nor run-of-the-mill. It’s hard to imagine anyone being unhappy to have Albers around the corner. Food Rundown Crab Beignets If you’re at Albers for a little snack and a little drink, then these crab beignets are a must. They’re golden brown with a jagged, crunchy batter and a lovely, creamy crab filling. photo credit: Jake Missing Duck Breast, Confit Leg, Stuffed Cabbage This is a very autumnal-feeling plate of food. Shades of brown jus combine with other shades of brown duck meat, and then there’s the occasional pop of colour from a fig or pink duck breast. It’s pleasant without being particularly special; the duck is cooked well, the fat could be better rendered, and the sauce needs some more depth." - Jake Missing