Cooks & Soldiers

Cooks & Soldiers - Review - West Midtown - Atlanta - The Infatuation

"Sometimes, we like to get off the proverbial hamster wheel and bask in being unhurried. This West Midtown spot obliges by supplying a long-form tapas-fueled meal that can last for several hours—but only if you want it to, and usually we do. Just a glance is all you need to get the gist of the dining room. There’s nothing you haven’t seen before (though it is polished and comfy in a sit-and-stay-awhile way), but it’s all merely background noise when dishes start rolling out. The most difficult thing about eating here is getting your table to agree on which of the 30+ shareable small plates to order. photo credit: Amy Sinclair That’s why we always start with a surefire winner like the bikini sandwich, which arrives as four small triangles of buttery bread with globs of white american cheese squishing out the sides. After a few glasses of tempranillo paired with spoonfuls of bone marrow dunked in tangy labneh, everyone at the table starts moving at a pleasantly lazy speed that's usually reserved for vacation. We have witnessed a chatty foursome spend 30 minutes finishing up a tiny bowl of yellowtail crudo topped with smoked watermelon. And the service (although quick and efficient) mirrors that type of “take your time” energy. There’s no rush here, and you usually have to ask for them to bring you the bill. And that’s kind of the point of Cooks & Soldiers. Slow down. Sip wine. Shoot the sh*t with friends. Spend a couple of hours grazing on dishes that make it hard to avoid using excited expletives. RESERVE A TABLE WITH RESERVE A TABLE Food Rundown Wine There’s a nice variety of whites, reds, and rosé on the menu. The overwhelming majority are from France and Spain—they’re really dedicated to their whole Basque region theme, which we appreciate. We’re particularly into tempranillos, which takes our love for dry reds and blends it with some fruity flavors that make us even more eager to order another bottle. Crudo Bright pink slices of smoked watermelon sit on top of slivers of yellowtail. Take a bite of both simultaneously for a burst of smoky, fresh flavor that’ll remind you of summer no matter what season ATL is repping that day. Bikini If there’s one dish that absolutely must be on your table, it’s this one. Thick globs of melted white american cheese mix with little chunks of jamón ibérico, all on buttery toasted white bread. And it’s cut into dainty triangles. photo credit: Amy Sinclair Txlindron This braised lamb shoulder is so tender, it falls apart as soon as you grab your fork. Topped with piquillo peppers and a briny olive tapenade, this dish is a total banger. Feuilleté A sweet and sticky puff pastry has a little mountain of burrata and apricots sitting on top. It’s savory. It’s sweet. It’s worth ordering." - Juli Horsford