Pizz'Amici sets a new gold standard for tavern-style pizza - Review - Chicago - The Infatuation
"As one of the city’s most iconic dishes, you have an equally high chance of running into a tavern-style pizza as you do a Chicago flag tattoo. Some pizzerias have been serving these square-cut slices for over 80 years, while a batch of new spots has added personal twists like sourdough crust and longanisa. Enter Pizz’Amici, a newcomer in West Town. It’s old-school when it comes to its toppings and dough, but raises the bar for the tavern-style that came before it. photo credit: Kim Kovacik photo credit: Kim Kovacik photo credit: Kim Kovacik photo credit: Kim Kovacik Pause Unmute Starting with the crust—it’s impressively thin and crackery, with a structural integrity that should get shout-outs in PBS specials about Chicago architecture. And the bottom of each pie is a dalmatian-spotted, charred beauty. The smoky flavor complements the slightly sweet tomato sauce and cheese that oozes to the edge. It’s the perfect canvas for whatever toppings you decide to throw onto your build-your-own pie (the fennel-forward sausage is particularly great). photo credit: Kim Kovacik photo credit: Kim Kovacik photo credit: Kim Kovacik photo credit: Kim Kovacik photo credit: Kim Kovacik Pause Unmute Pizz’Amici’s checkered floor space mashes “Leave the gun, take the cannoli” energy with the new-school hip-hop of Kendrick and Tyler. A portrait of the owner’s uncle—mid-cigarette puff—watches over the dining room. Paintings like this, along with old family photos and vintage art, add to Pizz’Amici’s personality. But one piece particularly speaks to us—a poster for the 1964 film Yesterday, Today, And Tomorrow. We haven’t seen the movie, but it does sum up how often we wish we were eating here. photo credit: Kim Kovacik How to get into Pizz'Amici Reservations are released a month out but get snatched up pretty quickly. If you’re not one of the lucky few to actually grab one (we’ve been there), try stopping by right when they open at 4pm—they have a few spots specifically available for walk-ins. Food Rundown Pizza With Sausage, Giardiniera, And Onion Pizz’Amici’s menu recommends three or fewer toppings for best results—this is our golden trio. The sausage has a nice amount of fennel that’s complemented by sweetness from the onion. And each bite also gets a burst of heat and tartness from the J.P. Graziano's giardiniera on top. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Pizza With Pepperoni If you're looking for a classic one-topping pie, the pepperoni is excellent. And it’s a $4 topping (the highest topping price) that goes a long way—Pizz’Amici loads each pie with a generous spread of the salty red cups. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Meatballs Don't overlook the menu's few non-pizza options, like these perfectly seasoned beef and pork spheres. They're served on a tangy, rich pool of sausage ragu, and the sprinkled cheese and breadcrumbs adds saltiness and texture. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Sausage And Peppers Based on the sausage on the pizza, the pepperoni, and the meatballs, it’s clear Pizz’Amici takes meat seriously. This plate is no exception. The sweet charred peppers, onions, and slight lemon flavor balance the rich and peppery sausage, while the bed of potatoes does a fantastic job soaking up the juices. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Caponata The combination of eggplant, olives, celery, and mint is crisp, tart, and refreshing. Plus, the included focaccia shows how Pizz’Amici’s dough expertise doesn’t stop at “thin and crackery”—it has a solid bite to its crust and a fluffy center. photo credit: Kim Kovacik Caesar Salad This salad has a lot of potential—the dressing is bright and creamy, the croutons have a great crunch, and the big pieces of anchovies add some saltiness. But the sogginess leaves us wishing for even one piece of crisp lettuce." - John Ringor
