"One of the first spots to champion a natural wines and small plates philosophy in the city, none of Erst’s descendants have quite hit the same heights. In fairness to them, this effortlessly cool Ancoats spot is a tough act to follow. With relaxed but attentive service, and a low-key, self-assured energy emanating from the open kitchen, Erst is a confident restaurant that knows how to make guests happy, with the must-order grilled beef fat and urfa chilli flatbread a testament to that. The excellent menu feels like an amalgamation of the kitchens of Turkish ocakbaşis, Tuscan osterias, Provencal bistros, and modern British gastropubs—without ever feeling incoherent. The seasonal menu changes often, but balance is the aim of the game: seafood crudos, fresh vegetable dishes, and grilled meats all working in harmony, and leaving enough room for a phenomenal panna cotta to finish." - joel hart