"There aren’t many restaurants that feel as dreamy as Brass in Nomad. It’s like stepping into the 1920s cocktail party in The Shining, without any sinister twins. Jacketed servers circle suede banquettes under sepia lighting, the same deep orange as the bitters-laced champagne cocktail. There's a grand piano under the skylight that may very well have been there for the last hundred years, albeit meticulously dusted. But at this sibling to Tusk Bar, also inside the Evelyn Hotel, dinner itself feels anticlimactic. Some of the pretty French food tastes perfectly satisfying, especially the cheesy steak tartare and the couronne de gougères speckled with caraway seeds. But nothing is good enough or (generously portioned) enough to justify the price. You could easily spend $150 on a half-dozen oysters overwhelmed by a plasticky geleé and a chicken roulade that fails to taste at all of the black truffle in its stuffing. photo credit: Sonal Shah photo credit: Sonal Shah photo credit: Carl Timpone While we don't recommend eating a full dinner here, Brass is worth a visit for the ambiance alone. Bring a date to sit at the bar and work your way through the “two sipper” drinks—perfectly composed miniature classic cocktails, like a dirty martini with a skewer that’s nearly the height of its scaled-down coupe glass. If you get hungry, you can always share all three desserts and call it a day. Food Rundown photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Steak Tartare This anchovy-funked tartare comes shingled with planks of shaved parmesan, which brings a welcome hit of salt and an enjoyable textural contrast to the party. If you want a salty snack to go with your miniature martini, this is a good one. Crab & Maitake Tartlet Sweet, earthy, and satisfyingly crisp. Crab Cake Over Bibb Lettuce We love this simple, scene-stealing salad of Bibb lettuce and translucent, sliced radish, and the crab cake is tender. But that’s crab cake, singular—and it costs a staggering $43. photo credit: Sonal Shah Ricotta Gnudi These ricotta dumplings are a fine order if you’re here for a drink and need a little something. The obligatory fancy-restaurant fungi—maitake and black truffles—make an appearance, though not much of an impression. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Pork Shoulder A La Moutarde If you’re set on ordering a main at Brass, make it this one. The mustard sauce is creamy and balanced, and the pork is juicy, though the portion size leaves something to be desired. (That something being…more food, please.) photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Golden Amish Chicken Roulade This two-person dish is beautiful and moist, but it’s not worth ordering. We’d much prefer a humbler presentation that costs less than a round-trip flight to Miami. photo credit: Molly Fitzpatrick Desserts Prioritize the Brass Cup, a serving of popcorn ice cream. The popcorn is ground to powder, then folded in—topped with bright, crunchy concord grape granita. This combination somehow hits like rich, compote-topped cheesecake. Then try the Vanilla Slice, silky custard and bright passionfruit curd sandwiched between two crispy sheets of puff pastry." - Molly Fitzpatrick
