"This casual Northern Chinese restaurant resembles a well-lit airport lounge equipped with gadgets like touchscreen wait lists and a fancy teapresso machine. The long menu has plenty of eye-grabbing dishes to choose from, like chewy scallion oil noodles that release a plume of garlic-kissed steam when you mix them and a flaky Chinese wagyu “burger” (rou jia ma) with shaoxing minced beef spilling out the sides. Every dish we’ve tried is good, but if there’s one item that can’t be missed, it's the Kaifeng-style guan tang bao, which look like XLB after bulking season, plumped up with thick wrappers and lots of rich, flavorful broth." - cathy park, sylvio martins, brant cox, andrew ryce