Bark Barbecue Review - DUMBO - New York - The Infatuation
"If eating fatty brisket with a craggly bark on the fifth floor of a building with a view of the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges isn’t up your alley, you better have a damn good reason why (and maybe that reason is you don’t eat meat). Bark Barbecue, which started as a roadside Ozone Park pop-up-turned-Smorgasburg staple, now has a stall on the roof of the Timeout Market in Dumbo, where you can get their black pepper-forward, Texas-style barbecue with slight hints of the pitmaster’s Dominican heritage. Go for both the salty and sweet stuff here, like juicy, smoky brisket with sweet maduros, or some peppery ribs with torta, a cakey Dominican cornbread with a warm spice-infused honey syrup. Food Rundown Brisket This is no bullshit barbecue, and undoubtedly one of the juiciest, smokiest, and best-executed briskets in New York. It tastes pretty much only like beef, salt, black pepper, and smoke. Just as it should. photo credit: Will Hartman Pork Ribs Peppery. Glazed. Rosy. Sometimes these aren’t cooked completely evenly, but you should get one for each person you’re with. photo credit: Will Hartman Pulled Pork We love pulled pork that doesn’t hide behind a sweet sauce. This pulled pork isn’t embarrassed by who it is, and we appreciate it for that. A worthwhile way to pad out your meats. photo credit: Will Hartman Cole Slaw This rendition is the exception that proves our unwritten rule of green cabbage cole slaw superiority. Somehow, the color of the cabbage doesn’t bleed, and the crunch and pepperiness holds its own against the rich meats. Torta Cakey and dense, this cornbread is heavy and we’re here for it. The warm spices work nicely when double-dipped in Bark’s mustard-based gold sauce. photo credit: Will Hartman Maduros These sticky and sweet pieces work really well with your pulled pork. Make a freaking sandwich." - Will Hartman
