"We’ve never heard more South Florida farms name-dropped by servers in tableside speeches than at this moment in time. But even with this growing awareness of our functional soil, EntreNos has taken the all-things-local mission statement further than anywhere else in town by sourcing 99.9% of its menu from the frustratingly long state of Florida. And a meal here is a series of delicate bites that make you contemplate how delicious your own backyard is. EntreNos is a pop-up, operating out of the casual sandwich shop Tinta Y Cafe in Miami Shores. They only do dinner, and there are only a handful of employees running service each night, cooking on a grill welded from a bed frame. It does very much feel like a casual cafe here, albeit with slightly dimmer lights. And the counter seating in front of the open kitchen provides the best view of the reason you’re here: the food. photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc To really get this place, you have to be interested in food—both how it tastes and the journey it took to land on your plate. Each dish comes with a brief introduction from one of the two chefs, who speed-walk plates from the kitchen to the table, in an understandable rush but never too hurried to answer highly specific questions about mangoes. They’ll tell you that the fish in the crudo is traditionally used as a bait fish by anglers. They’ll tell you about the market in Delray where they bought the golden tilefish, and excitedly add that you can sometimes get pumpkin swordfish there if you’re early enough. They’ll walk away, you’ll Google pumpkin swordfish, and get excited too. This meal is full of revelations like that. All these invisible ingredients that surround us daily suddenly turn visible with each bite. Yes, in some parts of the country, this whole farm-to-table thing is so ubiquitous it’s turned into cliche. Maybe you’re lucky enough to live in a city where that’s the case. We’re not quite there yet, but if EntreNos is any indication, we’re hopefully on our way. Food Rundown The menu at EntreNos changes frequently, but here are a few examples of the kind of dishes you might find here. video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Seasonal Salad The summer salad had papayas and avocados. The winter salad had grilled cucumbers, marinated tomatoes, and more vegetables plucked at peak freshness sitting on a purée made from charred rye bread. Get the salad, no matter what season it is. It’s always a stunning combination of textures and temperature. photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc Crudo The fish in the crudo changes (the photo above is bonito), but it’s often blue runner, which is usually looked at as a bait fish. But EntreNos knows it’s not fair that only other sea predators should get to enjoy this beautifully fatty little fish. photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc Grilled Sebastian Oysters Plan on splitting this because the brown butter chimichurri these hot oysters are bathing in—while incredible—is the kind of fatty, salty uppercut you want to have exactly three bites of. Luckily they come in the ideal sharing portion of six per order. photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc Chawanmushi Like so many of the dishes here, the accompaniment to this chawanmushi changes based on availability. We’ve had it filled with chunks of spiny lobster and once with smoked pompano. Whatever’s in it when you go, order this. All versions of this custardy ramekin of delight (and confit potatoes) have been the highlight of the meal. Rotating Fish The fish you’ll be eating here really depends on what the fishing’s been like lately. They serve line-caught Florida fish that range from golden tilefish with scales that puff up like chicharron to grilled swordfish. Whatever you get, it’ll be cooked to a level of perfection that'll make you a little sad about all the fish you've eaten in the past. photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc Dry Aged Ribeye Miami does some pretty absurd things with steak. But if you are craving—and we mean this as a compliment—an incredibly normal steak, this is it. Just know that normal doesn’t mean boring, and the incredible flavor of this dry aged ribeye will make you want to write a thank you letter to the ranch. You can even hand deliver it if you’re willing to drive four hours north because of course they tell you the name of the ranch it came from. video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Jackfruit Ice Cream Our strategy here is always to order both desserts. But may you be so lucky to arrive on a day when this jackfruit ice cream—the best ice cream we’ve ever had—is available. The luxuriously creamy bowl has a tie-dye swirl of green cardamom ganache on top and a layer of spiced peanut praline hiding at the bottom, so scoop deeply." - Ryan Pfeffer
