At Jr & Son, old-school is new, and the imperfections are lovable - Review - New York - The Infatuation
"Velvet curtains, leather booths, framed Mets memorabilia, and the intense need for a martini slap you in the face as you walk into Jr & Son in Williamsburg. It all might feel a little gimmicky, until you learn that most of the decor here has been around since this place opened in the 1930s. Back then, it was an Italian social club called Charlie’s (and starting in 1976, a dive bar named Jr & Son). Now living a third life under the Nura team, the only things that have really changed are the floor (which they ripped up to reveal the original checkered tiles), and the food menu, which leans Italian, but not all the way. Imagine Bernie’s, in the style of Bamonte’s. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte Pause Unmute Just like at Bamonte’s, the food isn’t perfect. The cacio e pepe is sometimes just slightly too peppery, the paccheri fra diavolo too spicy for the lobster it’s made with, and the chicken parm a little too saucy—though still delicious. The rough edges are noticeable, but generally forgivable. But the desserts, which are made by the pastry chef who's also responsible for the killer lineup at nearby Kellogg’s Diner, are inspired. Order at least two, and also that second martini. And then settle deeper into your booth, pretend you are a member of that social club, that the year is 1937, and that you've got some heavy socializing to do. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte Pause Unmute Food Rundown Onion Rings They're not in rings, and that's a good thing. Instead, they cut onions into chunks, so you never accidentally pull the whole onion ring out of its breading, and serve them with a creamy bomba sauce. photo credit: Kate Previte The Big Ice If you're feeling spendy, kick things off with The Big Ice. Everything on the platter tastes like it was plucked from the ocean mere minutes ago. If you're not, just order the crab salad that comes in the center of it a la carte. It's about 90% crab and 10% mayo. photo credit: Kate Previte Cacio e Pepe There was life before this pasta shape, and life after. It’s like a supersized ditalini, which captures the silky sauce well, and eats like a fancy mac and cheese. There’s a little too much black pepper, but not enough to prevent you from snagging another bite. Paccheri with Lobster Fra Diavolo Sauce Your server may warn you that this pasta is spicy, and you should believe them. It packs a commendable punch. The lobster is a nice addition, but gets a little lost in all that heat. photo credit: Kate Previte Ravioli with Mint Ricotta, English Peas & Parmesan This delicate, lemony pasta dish is a nice break from some of the other, heavier red sauce dishes. Order it, or anything like it, if it’s available. Skirt Steak The parsley butter is almost too rich of a pairing for this beautifully seared skirt steak. Some acid in the parsley butter could do the trick. photo credit: Kate Previte Chicken Parm If we had a regular order at JR & Son, it would be this. It’s not as crispy or mozzarella-covered as the one over at Bernie’s, but the red sauce makes up for that. Spiked with calabrian chilis and packed with enough sesame seeds to remind you of your favorite takeout sesame chicken, it’s the sort of sauce you’ll eat by the spoonful even once all the chicken is gone. photo credit: Kate Previte Long Green Beans Possibly our favorite savory item here. They're cooked with fish sauce and lots of crispy garlic, and they’re so long you can actually twirl them around your fork like spaghetti. Rainbow Cookie Layer Cake Dessert-based innovation. Like your favorite Italian cookie, except even more moist, with the almond swapped for coconut, and a fresh, seedy raspberry jam. photo credit: Kate Previte Orange Amaro Tiramisu The rainbow cookie layer cake gets a lot of attention, but the orange amaro tiramisu is a real scene stealer. A few citrus segments hide in the mascarpone, the whole thing is full of orange zest, and that end-of-meal amaro flavor gets you just about ready for bed. photo credit: Nicholas Zhou" - Willa Moore
