"Although you can find Little Baobab over in Peckham Levels, the Senegalese kitchen’s residency inside The Africa Centre is its first foray as a sit-down restaurant—and there are few other better-value set dinner menus in London. Previously occupied by Tatale, this earthy, cushioned restaurant feels more living room than lobby of a Southwark cultural centre. The thiere m’boum, a vegan stew of shovable comfort served with millet, doubles down on that lounge-like feeling. Of the £45 set dinner menu, the yassa chicken skewer, lamb mafe, and thiere m’boum stand out thanks to a mixture of tender meat and layered sauces. There’s a sweet caramelised onion creation, a gorgeous, peanut-heavy mafe number, as well some rocket fuel chilli sauce for the table. Some things (especially when it comes to desserts) fall below par and when you’re offering a limited selection set menu, you need every dish to be putting a shift in. That said, for a restaurant finding its feet, Little Baobab already feels it’s worthy of something more permanent." - Jake Missing
