Jiquitaia - Review - Paraíso - São Paulo - The Infatuation

"Jiquitaia is set inside a 1950s São Paulo townhouse, with a vintage feel from the original brickwork and tiling. It lends the place a homely atmosphere that belies the quality of cooking on show. The food could be described as modern pan-Brazilian, with inspiration from the Amazon (a tangy duck risotto with jambú and tucupí), the whole north (pirão), and more. But there are distinctly Asian flourishes that set it apart from many of the city’s top Brazilian restaurants. Excellent fried fish is hidden by a zingy and generous Thai-style green papaya and mango salad, and grilled okra arrives lined up like a box of cigars, topped with a sesame and miso dressing. An extensive cachaça list means the caipirinhas are stellar, and the cachaça slushy with passion fruit, banana, and coconut is both wacky and wonderful." - Tomé Morrissy-Swan