Kedai Makan Review - Capitol Hill - Seattle - The Infatuation
"Kedai Makan was once one of the on The Infatuation Seattle. The Malaysian food here was so jaw-dropping that we once equated its majesty to that of the Grand Canyon, and we even published a whole guide to bars to grab a drink nearby while waiting for your table. That wait was worth it every time. Sitting in the cramped teal space, getting teary-eyed from raw shallots wafting through the dining room was extra-special every time. Now, we’re still crying, but for a very different reason. In October 2022, Kedai Makan closed the doors of its charming original Capitol Hill space, leaving their cozy, steam-filled legacy behind. Now, they’re in a new location under new ownership. And the new guard certainly packs its larger digs (also on Capitol Hill). But a crowd is inevitable when you buy the rights to the Kedai Makan name and menu. Maintaining the majesty is not. Sometimes relocating works just fine, say if you’re The Brady Bunch trying to make a movie in Hawaii. But in this case, it doesn’t. The new Kedai Makan falls flat. While the dining room itself is spacious, tables are crammed together. And the moment you finally sorry-whoops-pardon your way into a seat, you might have to get up again—because even though Kedai Makan is a full-service restaurant, water is awkwardly self-serve at a dispenser station. Not only that, but dishes come flying out faster than insults at a comedy roast—and sometimes the small appetizer you wanted to have first is the last plate you'll get. It’s not the most comfortable setup, but if the food were great, we wouldn’t mind. But the food isn’t great. Sure, you can expect a similar lineup of Malaysian street favorites, from vibrant chili pan mee noodles to eggy net bread with a side of curry. And while the dinnerware is identical to the Kedai Makan of yesteryear, the food on top of those plates has lost its spark. The roti jala is dry and flakes into smithereens, and that curry is chronically broken, with pools of oil separating from otherwise-tasty dhal. The chili pan mee noodles used to dazzle us, and now they’re just bland. Even though this place is still called “Kedai Makan,” this is a totally different restaurant, and we can’t recommend a full meal here. We can, however, endorse sitting at the bar for Campari-spiked jungle bird cocktails and a few snacks, like crackly chicken wings topped with a peanutty spice paste, roti baba stuffed with pork and mushrooms, or crunchy prawn crackers dunked in sweet chili mayo. But the hits stop there. Whether you’ve been a local fan since Kedai Makan’s start, or you’re trying it out for the first time ever, don't burst in anticipating dinner to live up to the expectations either yourself or your friends have set. All good things end, after all. " - Aimee Rizzo
