Emmett does Mediterranean-meets-Middle Eastern better than anyone else - Review - Philadelphia - The Infatuation
"Halfway through our first meal at Emmett—in this case, by the third dish–we had to stop and take a beat. Not because Middle Eastern food is novel in this town. And definitely not because Mediterranean is new to us. But because we’ve never had the combination done as deliciously as this. After two years of pop-ups, Emmett has landed in an intimate brick-and-mortar in Fishtown. Thanks to industry vets running the show—some from top spots like River Twice and Vernick Fish—every element in the moody space has been fine-tuned, including the food. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Pause Unmute If you cozy up at the raw wood, walk-in only bar, ideally with a lamb fat washed-rye cocktail, you’ll get sneak peeks of things like wasabi-topped wagyu tartlets and calabrian-spiced tuna whizzing by from the kitchen. Tables are tight in the dining room—your knees might knock with strangers', and you might also be tempted to ask if you really need both the glazed lamb loin and the duck topped with seared foie across candlelit tables. (Yes.) The extensive menu winds through the Levant, North Africa, Italy, and France, and even has pit stops in the American South (the chicken fried oysters are not to be missed). We couldn’t stop eating the sesame-studded madeleines accompanied by ras al hanout butter and a tart rhubarb marmalade. The Moroccan spices wafting off the delicate arctic char are almost as appetizing as the flaky fish itself. And–in a first for root vegetables on our table–we fought over the last of the smoky charred carrots bathing in a spicy mangal jam. At Emmett, having an array of confident, complex dishes isn’t the issue. Getting to try most of them is. You can order a la carte, but the four-course, $105 tasting menu is a steal—portions are huge and cover nearly all of the bases. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Pause Unmute As sophisticated as its food is, Emmett doesn’t take itself so seriously. It’s as buzzy and exciting for a big deal date night as it is for a seven-year-old celebrating her birthday over Shirley Temples and sujuk cappelletti (true story). And it’s as common for the servers to go into detail on Middle Eastern spices as it is for them to joke with boozy guests over a playlist of early-aughts hip hop. During the week, do as the neighbors do and pop in to the bar for cocktails and snacks. But know that come Saturday night, the lights are low, the PA wine is flowing, and canoodling over lamb merguez is the name of the game. The seats fill up, quickly. So plan ahead. Make the reservation. Not because Middle Eastern-meets-Mediterranean food is so original. But in the world of Philly restaurants, Emmett is. Food Rundown Krisha Consider this the dirty martini’s Greek cousin. The vodka is feta-washed, so it takes on some of the cheese’s creamy, tangy texture. It’s also more mellow than the dirty version, but gets the job done all the same. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Mary's Lamb The rye at the base of this cocktail is lamb fat-washed, lending a savory flavor that tempers its peppery notes, while the cherry and calvados adds sweetness. The absinthe? That’s just for fun, and part of what makes it our favorite drink here. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Sesame Madeleines These savory, sesame madeleines are light and airy on the inside but have a buttery, firm crust. Coat them with the Moroccan spice-loaded butter, rhubarb marmalade, and a heap of osetra caviar for a delightful pop. We rarely think the caviar addition is worth it, but this makes for one beautifully layered, spicy-sweet-salty bite. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Rye Tartlet Creamy, horseradish-tossed wagyu tartare sits in a buttery rye tartlet, all topped by a wasabi hat. Horseradish and wasabi are both bringing the pungent spice, but you get totally distinct heats coming from each as you chew the perfectly cubed meat. Easily our favorite tartare in town. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Carrots Mangal Did you even read the review? These bad boys are smoky from the char, then served in a jam-like spice sauce. The harissa yogurt brings a touch of cool tanginess, and pine nuts impart a nutty, buttery final send-off. If you were scarred as a child by being force-fed slimy carrot sticks, this is your redemption dish. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Lamb Loin Deliciously rich and gamey glazed lamb belly is paired with a bright labneh. Lest you think one melt-in-your-mouth type of lamb is enough, there’s also the super savory barbecue lamb neck dolma. Our preference is for the belly, but the dolma tastes like a musky sausage. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Duck We love Emmett’s lamb (see above). But if you have to choose just one red meat here, it has to be this duck. The ruby red, gamey-sweet meat is paired with caramelly, candy-like dates. We strongly recommend adding the custard-smooth seared foie gras. If you’re tacking it onto the tasting menu, the dish takes extra time and money. Worth it. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo Date Cake It’s moist, it’s chewy, and it tastes like toffee. Skip the blood orange curd and get several orders of this instead. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo" - Alison B. Kessler
