"7pm at Shankeys, an Indian-Irish restaurant in an old bookies, is like being at a wedding reception when the free bar has been in play for several hours. Groups throw back Carlingford oysters by candlelight, laughter drowns out the music, and somebody’s started making cocktails with a bottle of home-brewed poitín.. After a few Barry’s Tea-gronis, the Hackney local sitting across from you with an Irish coffee in hand starts to look like your type. Take a deep breath, and put the plan you had to one side. It’s best to approach the Shankeys booking system without a set date in mind. There are reservations available, but rarely on the date you wanted. Also know that even at 6pm or 9:30pm—it’s plenty lively." - jake missing, daisy meager, sinead cranna, rianne shlebak, heidi lauth beasley