Manhatta Review - Financial District - New York - The Infatuation
"After a two-year break, Manhatta is back in its old location with a new chef and menu. That location—on the 60th floor of a FiDi skyscraper—is still the main draw, with the kind of panoramic views that would usually only be possible from a billionaire’s penthouse or a touristy observation deck. From up here, Manhattan, Brooklyn, and all the bridges that connect the two look like they’re made out of Legos. The upscale New American food at this Danny Meyer restaurant doesn’t quite match the magnificence of the scenery. But if you order the right things, you’ll have an unforgettable meal that might only be surpassed by dinner on the International Space Station. There are a few different ways to experience Manhatta. The bar area is huge, and the counter seating—where you can get a 10-course, $275 tasting menu—provides an entertaining front row seat to the controlled chaos in the open kitchen. But we prefer a table by the floor-to-ceiling windows in the back, where you can order à la carte. And given the views, it’s actually fine that the interior decor looks like it was put together by a firm that designs above-average conference rooms. At first glance, the menu feels tired. There’s a crudo, a tartare, something with foie, and a $170 côte de boeuf for two. But look a little closer, and you’ll see some innovative combinations. A refreshing daikon salad has strands of squid cut to look like noodles, and slabs of barbecued eel are ingeniously paired with discs of slightly sweet bone marrow. A couple of those combinations have us scratching our heads though. Peanuts don’t add much to a tête de cochon, undercooked potato cubes are confusingly mixed into lobster rice, and a chocolate sabayon seems unnecessarily dominated by passion fruit. If you notice that the menu sounds very meat-and-seafood-focused, you’re right. Consider heading elsewhere if your diet only consists of things that grow out of the ground. Manhatta recalls other places from Danny Meyer’s restaurant empire ( , for example) with similar food. But most of those places have a view of scaffolding, or at best an outdoor dining structure. At Manhatta you can drink a martini or split a bottle of Grüner Veltliner, and get incomparable views without having to buy a ticket, stand in a long line, and feel like a tourist, even though you’ve been paying outrageous rent here for over a decade. " - Kenny Yang
