"If we were as good at making an excellent first impression as Long Chim is, there’s a strong chance that our ex’s mum would still like our sparse Facebook updates. Alas, we are not, but at this vibey Thai residency on the ground floor of Soho’s Hovarda, staff will tenderly remove your coat, park you in front of a huge mural of a monkey hanging out in teacup, all with the promise of a sweet, alarmingly sippable pineapple Negroni arriving shortly. The golden, mirrored room sizzles and swells with blazer-donned date nights, heartfelt back-pat reunion greetings by the bustling open kitchen, and conversations that sound like an episode of a podcast called The Secret Inner Lives Of Ex-Upper East Siders. The Thai dishes are a comforting parade of well-done classics—hearty chunks of sticky, sweet pork, a skewer of subtle-spice squid with a proper smack of pickled ginger, meaty monkfish bathing in a rich, spice show curry—that all fall within the ‘nice’ bracket. Still, the buzz of the room carries the meal so that it still feels worthy of a low-key celebration or a last-minute meal in the area. video credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley video credit: Daisy Meager Food Rundown photo credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Long Chim Rolls Well, it beats a sad breadstick, that’s for sure. This is a spring roll-adjacent starter, and we’re into the crispy fried shell and stringy, moist cabbage innards. Give it a generous dip in the accompanying soy sauce for a little more flavour. photo credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Breaded Cured Pork A crispy little beefy nugget with a slightly sour flavour and subtle tingle. Although we found ourselves looking to match-make it with the nearest spicy prik nam pla. It’s a bit dry. video credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Aromatic Curry Of Monkfish With Cucumber Relish The monkfish has a thick, creamy bite, ideal for soaking up the pond of rich, buttery curry. This cheerful, luminous number is one of the few things on the menu that isn’t afraid to bring the heat. Nose-dabbing napkins at the ready. video credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Sweet Crispy Pork With Five Spice This was the only Long Chim dish that caused us to get a bit possessive. Pass the plate of sticky, near-caramelised pork? No, sorry. You should seek out the little jelly-like fatty pieces quietly, so as not to alert any nearby, hovering forks. video credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Black Tiger Prawns Baked With Vermicelli, Spring Onions And Celery It could very well be a simmering Oedipus complex but we sure do love it when someone lifts the lid off a steaming ceramic pot for us. Especially when it contains a messy mass of stringy vermicelli, even if the aromatic flavour is a touch one-note. video credit: Heidi Lauth Beasley Grilled Sticky Rice With Banana Consider yourself on a banana excavation mission. Go on, get that spoon digging. If you catch the right mouthful of sticky rice and sugary banana, you’re in for a chewy treat." - Heidi Lauth Beasley
