Passerine - Review - Flatiron - New York - The Infatuation
"At this Indian restaurant in the former Sona space, you can enjoy all the pros of picnicking in a meadow at dusk, with none of the cons. Romantic golden light hits the lush, leaf-printed wallpaper like a fading sunbeam, and over by the bar there’s a big pendant lamp that looks just like the moon. All that atmosphere—plus big tables and comfy leather chairs—makes Passerine a good option for an upscale, special-feeling group dinner in Flatiron. It’s also a great backup if you can’t get into Gramercy Tavern next door. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte Pause Unmute Your evening begins in a swanky, lounge-like drawing room, where you can order caviar-accented snacks and excellent cocktails like the Green Magpie—an unexpectedly successful infusion of rum, cilantro, saffron, and green cardamom. Though Passerine is named for an order of birds, in the dining room, tender meats are the real star, like a creamy, citrusy Kolhapuri lamb tartare. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Todd Coleman Pause Unmute The mains are somewhat less exciting than the starters, so go big on small plates, like the crunchy, deep-fried shrimp Koliwada. Portions here are on the modest side, which might be a blessing in disguise, considering that saving room for dessert at Passerine is a wise idea. Food Rundown Drawing-Room Menu Two of our favorite bites at Passerine are served exclusively in the drawing room, so make sure to order them along with your cocktails before you’re escorted to your table. The Beet Poriyal Tart is particularly dreamy, with beet custard, goat cheese, honey, and a remarkably crisp shell. And the Chickpea Sponge Dhokla is a lovely, fancified version of the sweet-and-sour, sponge-like Gujarati snack. photo credit: Kate Previte Kolhapuri Lamb Tartare Salty and fatty, bright yet earthy, this tartare is served with delicate fried shiso leaves, splayed out like crest feathers. Spoon a bit of lamb on for each soft-meets-crispy bite. photo credit: Kate Previte Shrimp Koliwada These juicy shrimp in a silky red chili chutney hold onto their crispy exteriors even if you briefly neglect them to dive into your other starters. Impressive. photo credit: Kate Previte Slow Roasted Cabbage We love the char on this cabbage, and the way it still retains a nice, crunchy bite. But the brown butter and coriander-laced coconut curry it’s swimming in is easily the best part. photo credit: Kate Previte Chicken Saagwala This silky, spicy spinach curry is one of the most boldly flavored dishes at Passerine. It supposedly serves two, but you might find yourself arguing with your dining partner over who gets to swipe up the last of it with their naan. photo credit: Kate Previte Beef Nihari Though not a traditional nihari, this is a solid choice for a main course. Braised for more than 18 hours, the beef is tender and the sauce is warmly spiced with cardamom and saffron. photo credit: Kate Previte Desserts If you’re a fan of the big, bright neon flavors of green apple candy, the Big Apple Gulab Jamun (with apple compote, apple frozen yogurt, and apple chantilly) will leave you googling when pick-your-own orchards open for the season. We prefer the understated but adorable, pleasantly malty cocoa husk ice cream sandwich, wrapped in brown paper and sealed with a vintage-looking bird stamp. photo credit: Kate Previte" - Molly Fitzpatrick
