"It's easy to be cynical about magic tricks. No one actually believes those doves appeared out of nowhere or that the ace of hearts was in the guy's mouth the whole time. But after our first visit to Simón, we found ourselves scratching our heads in disbelief and amazement, as if someone had just pulled a quarter from behind our ear. Working with limited kitchen space (about 16 square feet) and limited hands (there's one chef), this Mexican mariscos truck in Silver Lake serves seafood dishes that wouldn't be out of place at a fine dining restaurant, which feels kind of magical in its own right. LA Guide LA's Best New Restaurants Of 2022 Simón is located in front of the Pine & Crane parklet, and even if you're zooming down Sunset, the bright blue truck is hard to miss. But be sure to check hours online in advance to ensure you don't miss it—they're usually around from 11:30-7pm on Tuesday through Sunday, but we've found Simón's Instagram to be the most reliable source. photo credit: Matt Gendal In many ways, the experience at Simón reminds us of the glory days of Guerrilla Tacos, back before the famed street taco spot had graduated to a brick-and-mortar space. Which is to say, this isn't just your average mariscos operation. The flavors and textures here are calculated and complex, from the smoked tomatillo salsa in the aguachile negro to the caramelized onion and charred pineapple on the fish al pastor. Simón is run by two cousins, one of whom previously cooked at Pitiona, a renowned fine dining spot in Oaxaca. The menu at Simón takes inspiration from that region as well as the coast of Chiapas in Southern Mexico, which in many dishes, generally translates as a good amount of tropical fruit mixed in with chiles and fresh herbs. And the combination of sweet and spicy dominates most of the food here, sometimes a little too much. The mixed ceviche with shrimp and octopus is bright and tangy, for instance, but once blasted with big chunks of sweet mango, leans close to a fishy Dole fruit cup. What you really want to come here for are the seafood tacos. Fresh corn tortillas are topped with spicy fish al pastor, charred pineapple, and crispy onions for extra crunch. There's an excellent Baja-style fish taco with a tangy tomato sauce that soaks into the crunchy beer batter, a shrimp and bacon taco with creamy black bean puree, and a show-stopping soft shell crab taco tossed in smoky chipotle mayo. All these creations are incredibly delicious and gorgeous, but there's also a secret weapon that bumps them to the next level: the truck's refrigerated salsa cabinet. Whatever you order, these creative flavor combinations will crank your food up several notches. The creamy carrot habanero salsa packs a heat that creeps up on you, and the sweet, nutty pica piña salsa absolutely belongs on everything edible. photo credit: Matt Gendal As Simón's logo proudly displays, the truck specializes in mariscos chingones (a.k.a. some real bad*ss seafood). We strongly agree. And yet despite the caliber of food, you'll never forget you're eating from a food truck. You're sitting on a traffic barrier eating an octopus barbacoa taco topped with life-altering salsa while yelling over car horns and trucks rumbling past. The juxtaposition feels quintessentially LA, and maybe even a little magical. Food Rundown photo credit: Matt Gendal Aguachile Rojo We're fans of this aguachile because every bite is a little different, and we like a surprise now and then. It's wonderfully bright at first from the fresh lime before you get a bite of sweet pineapple. And then, almost suddenly, a huge wave of heat hits you from the fiery chiltepín. It's a wild and delicious rollercoaster ride. Mixed Ceviche This ceviche is like the rest of us: not perfect, but trying its absolute best. The shrimp and octopus are nicely cured and tender, the leche de tigre has the right balance of salty and sour, and we love the big chunks of cilantro and cucumber. But the diced mango that should tie the whole dish together dominates everything else. photo credit: Matt Gendal Fish Al Pastor This fish al pastor might not pack the same flavor bomb as a traditional pork al pastor, but it's a pretty genius (and delicious) idea nonetheless. The fish is flaky and pairs well with the caramelized onions and charred pineapple wedge. Adding big splatters of pica piña salsa is strongly recommended. photo credit: Matt Gendal Soft Shell Crab Taco Warning: if you find small crabs cute, this taco might be kind of jarring. You'll see fried little crab legs peeking out of the tortilla as you sink your teeth in, but the shock factor quickly dissipates once you hear that satisfying crunch. The diced pineapple and pickled onions inside keep things light and fresh, even with a big glob of spicy mayo on top. Baja-Style Fish Taco We didn't come here expecting to find love, but this very suave Baja-style fish taco now owns our hearts. The crispy beer batter is fried perfectly, then coated in a smoky tomato sauce before being finished with chipotle mayo and a heaping pile of salted red cabbage. photo credit: Matt Gendal Salsa Cabinet This cabinet is a flex. Other taco trucks will give you room-temperature salsa verde, but at Simón's, the salsa selections are chilled, varied, and served in mason jars with cute little wooden spoons. There's a nutty-sweet pineapple one, a tangy carrot habanero one with a fiery vengeance, creamy guacachile with lots of fresh cilantro, and a smoky salsa macha made jet black by charred chiles. You won't find salsas like these anywhere else in LA, which is also kind of a flex. And if you're not sure which one to try, the jar labels provide taco pairing suggestions. LA Guide LA’s Best New Dishes Of 2022" - Sylvio Martins
