"At this new-wave brasserie, a three-course menu costs less than a main at the old-guard spots. The dizzying décor—colorful wallpaper and deco-inspired chandeliers—are indicative of their maximalist approach to revamping the classics. Leek-vinaigrette departs from its typically soft-on-soft texture, with deeply charred leeks piled high with bitter greens, toasted nuts, and croutons the color of autumn leaves at the Luxembourg gardens. The ultra-rich French onion soup with a hint of port may well be the city's best. And on weekends, share the roast chicken, served with a mountain of crispy frites perfect for dragging through all that rich jus. Reservations are tough to snag, but only because they keep so many of the red velvet chairs open to walk-ins. In fair weather, enjoy a cocktail made exclusively with French spirits on the outdoor terrace while you wait." - Emily Monaco
