"You can show up to this restaurant in Les Goudes, a fishing village just outside the city, sandy, sweaty, or dressed to get that way, and no one will mind. For an expensive place, it’s surprisingly laid-back—in fact, weekend lunches can be pretty loud. And lunch is the time to come, especially if you don’t have a car, since the bus back to Marseille stops running before dinnertime. Ask for a window table when you reserve, and look out at the marina while you pour over the menu. They do an excellent bouillabaisse, but there are some caveats: it’s an enormous €62 dish for a minimum of two people, and it needs to be ordered 48 hours in advance or with your reservation. Here’s a little secret, though: The bourride is basically bouillabaisse junior—it’s €42 and, even though it’s too big for one person, sharing it will leave you enough room for dorado carpaccio or grilled John Dory. Air-conditioning: Yes." - sophie friedman
