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"Batong was one of the first Milan restaurants to serve Yunnan cuisine, the complex cooking of China’s southwest, known for pu’er tea, wild mushrooms, and the culinary diversity of its 36 ethnic groups. With Yunnan food still rare abroad, Batong feels like a discovery. The menu highlights dishes from the Dai people: tofu or mushrooms steamed in banana leaves, sour fish soup, julienned potato with rice vinegar, and boldly spiced beef heart. We wish it went deeper into Dai specialties, but as an introduction to one of China’s most nuanced regional cuisines, it’s a standout. Reservations by phone are essential for both lunch and dinner." - Michael Zee