"RVR is a reboot of the dearly departed MTN, and as both restaurants’ aversion to vowels suggests, not much has changed at this izakaya from the former Gjelina chef. The dim, brooding room is packed with dates drinking highballs and Venice dads who show up on an electric motorcycle. It’s the liveliest we’ve seen Abbot Kinney since the Birkenstock store’s end-of-summer sale. Booking a table takes some effort, but it's worth it for delicious, pared-down Japanese small plates that lean traditional while also swerving totally Californian. That means smoked shoyu in the little gem salad, crispy pork belly gyoza you’ll want to order by the dozen, and assertively grilled vegetables that might not be in season next week. Don’t underestimate the simple clam ramen—the noodles are rolled fresh and the shellfish broth is sweet and oceanic. Online reservations are released 30 days out at midnight daily. For walk-ins, plan on lining up before doors open at 5pm, or arriving after 8:30pm—you'll likely be seated at the wrap-around bar either way." - brant cox, arden shore, sylvio martins, cathy park