"The uni dish to trump all uni dishes has arrived, in a simple, silvery-gray space in Chinatown that looks like a highly fashionable bank vault. Bridges, from a former chef at Estela, tops their uni custard with a big fat dollop of uni and cold raw shrimp—and one soft, sultry bite made us worry that the rest of the meal would never measure up. But then there’s the comté tart—like a savory cheesecake showered in chanterelles, with a buttery crust. Also dainty smoked eel dumplings in a dashi-like broth, and pork with a rich truffle sauce. Bring someone who's ready to spend around $120 and get a bottle of wine with dinner, but who doesn’t really care about a grand dining room or a martini cart—this is a restaurant for an elegant date in your finest black jeans and sweater." - molly fitzpatrick, bryan kim, neha talreja, willa moore, will hartman, sonal shah
