"There are a handful of historic palaces that used to belong to Italian royalty just a few steps away from the church that houses The Last Supper (Da Vinci himself kept a small vineyard in a hidden garden across the street). One of them—an 18th-century palazzo with an unassuming exterior—is Cavoli a Merenda, an Italian restaurant that manages to be both grand and comfortable. Book a table in advance to eat at one of the beautiful tables surrounded by ivy and fragrant blooms on the glass-walled terrace. It’s a seasonal menu, with dishes like fassona beef tartare with bok choy in the spring, and delicate squid gnocchetti with potato cream and black truffle in the fall. Two things you'll always find, though, are a wild fish of the day and artisan dried pastas. Cavoli a Merenda is only open during the week, and reservations are a must." - Elizabeth De Filippo-Jones
