Hickory Hollow - Review - North Houston - Houston - The Infatuation
"If we created a tournament bracket for the best chicken fried steak in town, Hickory Hollow’s golden and delicious slab of pounded and fried beef swaddled in country gravy would be the number one seed. Open in North Houston since 1977, Hickory Hollow looks more like a giant barn than a hollow. Wood paneling covers the entire interior and exterior, country western tchotchkes line every surface and wall, and there are even picnic tables inside. Everything here screams: this is Texas, pard’ner. As does the menu with combination barbecue plates, southern sides, and a salad bar that only seems to stock ranch dressing. You can also order three different sizes of chicken fried steak. Only attempt the saddle-blanket-sized “large rancher” portion if you either haven’t eaten in two weeks or if you also need to feed your horse, likely roped up outside (please do not feed this to a horse). Every bite is crunchy, beefy, salty, and swimming in thick country gravy. Taste the glory of this rich country western cousin of schnitzel and milanese on its own, or, like the innovator you are, use pieces of steak to scoop up creamy macaroni and cheese or mashed potatoes. Head over to Hickory Hollow to satisfy a deep craving for chicken fried steak, a solid southern meal, or, if there's a big group of folks to feed, rent out the upstairs dining room for a country banquet that’s all your own. photo credit: Liz Silva photo credit: Liz Silva photo credit: Liz Silva Food Rundown photo credit: Liz Silva Salad Bar The salad bar is front-and-center and filled with big metal buckets of saltines and toppings. And while it might look open to everyone, you have to pay for access, so don’t go sneaking any pickles or ranch dressing. photo credit: Liz Silva Chicken Fried Steak Objectively we know this is just a fried piece of beef, but it’s a damn good one. Something about the glow of the crust and the creamy majesty of country gravy bewitches us. photo credit: Liz Silva Sides All of the sides are what we lovingly refer to as “cafeteria-style.” They’re hearty, not huge in flavor, and slightly overcooked. Regardless, we order the green beans and macaroni and cheese every time." - Chelsea Thomas
