"This head-trip of a Oaxacan restaurant inside the Lafayette Hotel was Frankensteined from a decommissioned Mexican church, including not-so-subtle references to heaven and hell. Wooden pews, stained-glass windows, and candelabras dripping with wax are the backdrop for velvety and complex black mole that puddles underneath a duck carnitas-topped memelita (a toasted masa cake), or tuck into grilled octopus sauced with tomatillo-spiked mole pipian. Instead of holy water, douse yourself in agave spirits—the mezcal list will absolve you of all worries, at least for one night." - ligaya malones, candice woo, cora lee