Brennan’s of Houston - Review - Midtown - Houston - The Infatuation
"The second you turn onto Smith Street and see the two-story brick building surrounded by Live Oak trees and iron railings, you’re in old New Orleans. Brennan’s Of Houston, a classic Creole restaurant in Midtown, keeps the Big Easy illusion alive inside, too, with white tablecloths, chandeliers, and servers in vests lighting food on fire. Brennan’s is the only spot in town serving a bowl of snapping turtle soup with drizzles of sherry. And the gulf fish Pontchartrain with crab and fried oysters is like enjoying the best of the Gulf on a plate. But their iconic bananas foster flambéed tableside is the dish not to miss. There’s just something about Brennan’s that never made it past a certain era that we love. Food Rundown photo credit: Dragana Harris Oysters Ordering a dozen oysters here is an expected move. So much so that the staff sometimes asks, “What oysters do you want to start with?” at the beginning of the meal. No matter how busy, each one arrives clean, free of any pesky shell, and with a classic condiments trio of horseradish, cocktail sauce, and mignonette. photo credit: Debora Smail Snapping Turtle Soup Brennan’s is the only restaurant that serves turtle soup in Houston. It’s light, with a punch of drizzled sherry and only the faintest hint of spice. photo credit: Kimberly Park Brennan's Gumbo The details of this gumbo are all dialed in, probably because Brennan’s has been making it for years. The bowl has a deep mahogany-color seafood broth and a sprinkling of filé herbs like soup perfume. And even though the toppings rotate seasonally, the base stays consistent, balancing richness with smoke and a nutty roux. photo credit: Kimberly Park Crab Cakes These are more crab than cake, as they should be. Flavored with caramelized leeks and sweet corn, sharing these with anyone is a great altruism stress test. photo credit: Debora Smail Gulf Fish Pontchartrain This is the Gulf on a plate. You can barely see the tender fish beneath a beautiful heap of fried oysters, crab, jumbo shrimp, and a thick blanket of rich and spicy butter sauce. photo credit: Kimberly Park Smoked Gouda Andouille Mac & Cheese What makes a good macaroni and cheese is one of those personal things most Houstonians have opinions on. But this ultra-creamy mac, with only a hint of smoke and snappy andouille, is a tasty olive branch for any warring schools of thought. photo credit: Brennan's Of Houston Bananas Foster Bananas Foster is part of what makes Brennan’s, well, Brennan’s. It’s heavy on the rum without tasting boozy, topped with a mound of ice cream, and flambéed tableside with expert precision. If it’s your first time at Brennan’s, get this dessert." - Chelsea Thomas
