Lioness makes aperitivo hour exciting - Review - Seattle - The Infatuation
"Any Italian wine bar can serve some fizzy Campari business alongside appetizers that merely require assembly. But Lioness in Phinney Ridge is a prosciutto-wrapped gift to North Seattle—and makes aperitivo hour actually exciting. The galley-style space feels effortlessly cool, like Ray-Bans or anyone who rides a Vespa. A soundbath of date night chatter swirls with high-BPM tunes. Flickering tea candles and a couple of chandeliers are the only light sources. The marble standing-only bar makes sitting seem passé, as folks mingle and sip bergamot-infused spritzes, frothy zero-proof garibaldis, or martinis so squeaky clean you could mop the floor with any rogue sloshes. And it takes serious restraint to not flip over the olive green-freckled ceramic to learn who the heck designed such criminally adorable plates. photo credit: Nate Watters photo credit: Nate Watters photo credit: Nate Watters photo credit: Nate Watters photo credit: Nate Watters The bites served on that dishware go way beyond the call of small plate duty. A would-be-boring ball of burrata has a surprising kick, and salumi is shaved thinner than parchment paper, an achievement in salt-cured pork we wish more restaurants gave a damn about. Past the excellent drinks and starters, it's safe to avoid the $18 over-spiced meatball—but dive headfirst into a bowl of brothy clams or bouncy cavatelli. If you’re only in it for the lighter bites anyway, that should soften the blow of the hassle it takes to get in. With limited reservations, you can expect to wait a bit for a table, even on a weekday. But it’s worth it for a night out fueled by falanghina and salami—stick it out and snack on. Food Rundown photo credit: Nate Watters Burrata Have you ever ordered burrata at a wine bar only to discover that it was just burrata? Well, Lioness’s take is more than “just burrata,” with pops of calabrian chile and lemon oil that pool with the stracciatella when you crack it open. Tack on an order of prosciutto, plop it all on fluffy toasted ciabatta, and you have an unstoppable drinking snack. photo credit: Nate Watters Smoked Black Cod Mousse We’d order this creamy fish dip purely for the homemade cracker slabs that come on the side—if only they were packaged in a cellophane bag to-go, you could catch us later in front of the TV covered in crumbs. A snapped shard spread with mascarpone-spiked cod puree and some ikura is a great bite of food. photo credit: Nate Watters Clams Don’t underestimate the power of a dependable bowl of clams. These Hama Hama manilas are tender and plump, served in a soothing broth that requires an extra slice of crusty toast for critical absorption. photo credit: Nate Watters Beef & Pork Meatball Besides the fact that this is a solitary meatball for $18, the meat crumbles like brown sugar upon fork contact, and there’s an aggressive dried herb in there that makes the whole thing bitter and taste like a spice cabinet accident. Steer clear altogether. photo credit: Nate Watters Cavatelli Pasta It’s refreshing to see this wildly underrepresented pasta shape in Seattle—and depending on the preparation, there's a good chance you could be delighted. A recent version with jammy sungolds invoke late summer in edible form. photo credit: Nate Watters Dark Chocolate Cake Here’s a brownie that got a doctorate. Crackly on top and fudgy in the center, this chocolatey wedge is already freaking perfect—and the barely-sweetened mascarpone whip flecked with ground espresso cuts through the decadence of it all. Do not skip dessert here." - Aimee Rizzo
