Pastor took over a classic restaurant and refused to let it die - Review - Miami - The Infatuation
"Pascal’s was a Coral Gables classic that served the best French food in Miami for 25 years. It was stubbornly old-school and famous among people who go gaga over soufflés—a small but fiercely loyal demographic in Miami. Then the owner retired and sold the restaurant to a Basque chef who had two choices: kill a legendary French menu or let his own creation blossom. He chose both. The beautifully Frankensteined Pastor At Pascal kept the French classics and added a separate Spanish section to the menu. Somehow, both feel like headliners. video credit: Ryan Pfeffer You’d think the French and Spanish menus would be feuding like it’s 1635. But seared foie gras leads seamlessly into Galacian octopus, while crispy duck confit and Iberian pork entrees are friendly allies on an ironed white tablecloth. Pastor works because it sticks to traditional dishes from both countries, and executes them with precision. Pastor kept Pascal’s going in more than name and menu. It also retained its staff, both in the front and back of house, which is why their gruyere soufflé still scrambles all of the logic parts of your brain. The longtime regulars still show up even though the renovated dining room where they celebrated the last two decades of anniversaries now looks more like the craft services of a Jumanji reboot (the fake vine budget is steep). video credit: Virginia Otazo video credit: Virginia Otazo Pause Unmute Thankfully, when the food hits the table, the dining room disappears. Pastor At Pascal inherited a dream menu, but its Spanish dishes are good enough to keep up with the famous French ones. That’s where the fun of this restaurant is. It’s also just nice to see a new restaurant go through the pains of preservation, especially one just blocks from a slightly depressing landmark and painfully perfect Miami metaphor: a tiny family home swallowed by a monstrous development after refusing to sell. Pastor is proof that irreplaceable things should be respected, and you can still find creative ways to make them exciting and new again. Food Rundown Gruyere Cheese Soufflé When people talk about the old Pascal’s, they’ll talk about this dish. It’s fluffy, salty, airy, and the parmesan fondue adds a tanginess that makes you salivate like a rottweiler. photo credit: CLEVELAND JENNINGS / @EATTHECANVASLLC Croquetas The cod in these croquetas tastes like it’s been swimming in rich cream all its life. And the jamón ibérico version is a crunchy ball filled with rich pork and silky bechamel. The best part is they’ll let you order half cod and jamón. PlayMute video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Grilled Galician Octopus It’s so easy to mess up grilled octopus. That doesn’t happen here. Pastor’s is fat, charred at the tip, and covered in a tetilla cheese. It’s spectacular. PlayMute video credit: Virginia Otazo Duck Confit Fitting with Pastor’s overall theme, this duck further proves that something can be two things at once. The skin crackles, but the meat is juicier than the first few bites of bubble gum. It’s another Pascal’s classic we’re so happy is still on the menu. photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc Presa Ibérica Order it medium rare, and you’ll never think of pork as “the other” anything. PlayMute video credit: Ryan Pfeffer Grand Marnier Soufflé A good rule is to start and end a meal at Pastor with a soufflé. This one comes with a creamy orange sabayon that’s pierced into the center of its sweet, molten center. PlayMute video credit: Ryan Pfeffer" - Virginia Otazo
