

19
"Corkscrew’s menu might come off as boring if the brisket weren't head and shoulders above any other spot in town. It's smoked using red oak (not the usual choice), and biting into it feels like taking a deep breath of fragrant smoke, in a very good way. The rest of the menu is plays it safe, although in this case safe means high-quality sides and technically well-executed meats. The beef-and-pork garlic sausage is perfectly snappy, the macaroni and cheese is a classic recipe with melty american cheese, and the turkey is saltwater-brined, Martha Stewart-style, which makes it taste a little like Thanksgiving. (Corkscrew also serves excellent Oak Cliff Soda from Dallas, which is a bold choice in Houston.)" - Courtney E. Smith