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"In Georgetown, Penang I encountered unpretentious Nyonya cooking served with unwavering authenticity at Auntie Gaik Lean's Old School Eatery; everything is made from scratch — even the vegetable-stuffed shells for the signature pie tee — and the herbaceous, hard-to-find nasi ulam is another must-try that reflects the matriarch’s time-tested recipes." - Alvin Lim