Ruen Ton: A Perfect Evening is as Simple as Comfort Food Coupled With Refined Drinks

"Tucked away on the ground floor of The Montien Hotel in Bangkok, this all-day diner may look a bit old-fashioned with classic wood panelling and floral upholstery, but for over four decades it has drawn groups of friends and tempted foodies with Thai-Chinese comfort dishes executed with lamiat—meticulous care for quality and flavour. As the long-standing executive chef Amnuay Aneksuwan puts it, “Lamiat to me is the meticulous care and the heart we put into perfecting the quality and flavour of every single dish to ensure a perfect evening with friends.” From a dedicated kiosk, Hainanese chicken rice moves over 300 plates a day from 11:30 a.m. until the chicken runs out by dinnertime; the moist, tender bird, aromatic rice, clear soup, and four sauces work together beautifully, thanks to sub-boil poaching and quick cooling of ~4-kilogram chickens and jasmine rice selected at the optimal crop age so grains cling yet stay whole. The “Emperor’s Fried Rice Noodles” dwarfs standard rad na, smothering wide noodles with generous slices of pork, a whole river prawn, crispy squid, and sizeable vegetables—broccoli, green asparagus, cauliflower, kale, and coconut shoots—harmonised by a hint of sesame oil, with a portion substantial enough for two. Sautéed turnip cakes reinterpret a dim sum favourite: hotel-made cakes pan-fried to crispness and tossed with shrimps, chive, and eggs, their umami boosted by finely chopped pork and pork fat and contrasted with crunchy bean sprouts, balanced by a chef-tweaked sweet dark soy sauce. Pork spareribs sit in a tomato-based marinade for about two hours before braising for another two until off-the-bone tender, their sweetness evened out by a chilli and vinegar sauce; paired with steamed rice topped with a fried egg, it becomes a complete meal. Pan-fried mussels are mixed with a special flour blend and deep-fried into crunchy sheets of fresh mussel and batter—an ideal beer snack—with an accompanying chilli sauce that refreshes the palate between bites. Decades-perfected recipes, thoughtfully tuned sauces, and consistent execution make this Bib Gourmand classic a reliable, convivial choice best enjoyed with down-to-earth friends and a refined drink." - Tina Hsiao