
5

"Beneath the walls of a castle, in historic cellars, we found cooking of striking skill, refinement and creativity, with Chef István Pesti’s 2021 opening now delivering a lengthy tasting menu brimming with precision and real depth. An amuse bouche of wonderfully constructed gazpacho granita had perfect texture and distilled the essence of the gazpacho flavour, setting eager anticipation for what followed. A dish of trout, cucumber and ponzu showed the kitchen’s excellent grasp of flavours: lightly charred trout paired with pearls of cucumber essence, its sweet-and-salty ponzu lit up by bergamot, a hint of mango and finger lime for acidity. Desserts delighted our sweet-toothed inspectors too, especially a composition of peach, white chocolate and almond, where peach in natural, purée, gel and sorbet forms provided lively acidity against a white chocolate and marzipan mousse, with a biscuit bringing textural contrast. With only eight tables around an open kitchen, each diner enjoys a memorable, highly personalised experience, and while the dishes showcase István Pesti’s originality, there’s an admirably confident restraint; smooth service, excellent wines and the unique, attractive setting complete a great all-round experience." - Andrew Young