A Day in the Life at Tartarun, Marsaxlokk, Malta

"An elegant harbourside restaurant in Marsaxlokk run by the Schiavone family for over a decade, this place is all about fish and has become part of village life. It’s all about freshness here: father Joseph knows which boats are out, checks the weather to predict availability, and heads to the fish market at 3am to bid—sometimes fiercely—on the best catch, leaning on lifelong friendships with local fishermen to source top quality. Lunch is fast-paced, with a mix of bookings and walk-ins; the à la carte menu centers on a ‘catch of the day’ ritual where whole, unscaled fish are presented and explained, weighed for price, then cooked to preference—the most popular option is on the bone, before being filleted tableside. Afternoons bring quieter moments to handle correspondence while Stephen—now a certified sommelier—oversees a 150+ bin wine list that’s renowned locally. Dinner settles into a slower, laid-back rhythm, and the team often ends the night with a chat and sometimes a raised glass. Their mantra is to be self-motivated to be better, learn something new every day, manage the business sustainably, and stay consistent; they’re inspired by the simplicity, precision, and seasoning of Japanese cuisine—falling for irizake and experimenting to create their own garum—and lockdown reinforced how essential real customer exchanges are, reminding them that no technology can replace the human element in hospitality." - The MICHELIN Guide UK Editorial Team