Italy's Best-kept Coffee Secret Is This Stunning Port City and Its Timeless Cafes

"At the Antico Caffè San Marco, my first stop after getting off the slow train from Venice, the closest thing to a macchiato was a goccia, an espresso topped with a drop of milk foam. If you want a standard espresso, order a nero — which in other parts of Italy will get you a glass of red wine. Most people ask for a capo in b, which a server told me is like a cappuccino, but with less milk, and served in a bicchiere, or glass, rather than a cup. Mine arrived on a silver tray, along with a small glass of mineral water, the way it might at a Kaffeehaus in Austria. Indeed, with its intricate woodwork, Comedy and Tragedy masks, and patrons quietly examining the day’s broadsheets, the cafe felt more like one in Belle Époque Vienna than modern-day Italy." - Taras Grescoe