Molly T.
Yelp
After a month or so of hibernating without any restaurant excursions (a crime, I know), our night at Kiko was fabulous welcome back to the dining scene. The the vibes were warm and welcoming and food was as creative as it was tasty. We took an absurdly long time to deliberate because of how great everything on the menu looked (which our server did not seem thrilled with but she put up with us all the same) and at this point I think it's probably safe to say that you can't go wrong. I just happened to be a major sufferer of FOMO which makes decisions impossible and temporarily renders them far more dire than they actually are. All this means now is that we must return to try what we omitted.
We came here at around 8:45 on a Saturday night. Despite being somewhat out of the way and in a neighborhood that is trying to make fetch happen and not yet succeeding, the place was packed and buzzing, and quite a bit larger than I expected upon first walking in. The decor is understated but inviting with lots of natural elements, neutrals, and warm lighting. We were seated all the way in the back which is like a cute extra nook that, if functionality allowed, could be awesome as a covered convertible space during the summer (but they didn't ask me for design advice, nor do I possess any credentials to offer it).
Drink-wise, Kiko offers a super creative cocktail menu along with wine and other libations. Most of the cocktails are innovative and nuanced takes on classics, which somewhat resemble the traditions versions in specs but the ingredients are diverse and unique. I started with the Kiko Martini (Gin, Vermouth, Sake, Yuzu, Sea Lettuce) because I always start with a martini. This one was super crisp, notes of salt and citrus and umami, a lot going on but in a subtle way. The Kinome Negroni (Gin, Campari, Spanish Vermouth, Mandarin, Kinome) was also complex but not in a subtle way, the citrus notes from the mandarin and kinome blending beautifully with the campari to complement the gin. Also very seasonal, which was appreciated.
Food-wise, as you already might guess from the drinks, Kiko's menu is generally new American with significant influence from several Asian styles of cooking, such that each dish offers familiar elements yet has a totally unique personality to it. They recommend that you split everything here -- which we would have done anyway -- as most of the dishes are served in such a way that facilitates
sharing. Eats, below:
Tuna tartare w/ takuan, scallion, crème fraîche and pommes allumettes: A
I guess we were too excited to get started on our meal because I seem to have not captured a photo of this. An excellent dish to start with as far as waking up the palette goes, a great combo of textures and flavors.
Chicory and red cabbage salad w/ peanut-tahini and lime dressing, dukkah, herbs: A
This had all elements of the perfect winter salad. Crispy and bitter winter greens, nuttiness, sweetness, and citrus. And colorful, too!
Maine lobster crispy rice w/ Athai chili, red curry, meyer lemon and basil: A+
This was one of the dishes mentioned as a standout in just about every review I read prior to coming here, and now you can add mine to the list. Not only was it unlike anything I had ever tried before, but it was next-level flavorful and delicious.
Short rib w/ preserved peppers and perilla: A
One of the simpler dishes on the menu -- at least in presentation -- but less can be more with something like short rib when seasoned/marinated/etc well because it holds its own without much fluff around it. The subtle rustic/herby elements here just serving to showcase the flavors of the meat.
Broccolini w/ miso bagna cauda: A
We honestly didn't need this as it turns out because we had plenty of food, but it felt weird to order the short rib on its own without a side so that's how we ended up with the broccolini. I had never tried bagna cauda before and it was super tasty and would probably pair well with other types of roasted veggies as well.