Ops Pizza Is a Pizza Joint Where the Salad Is the Thing (and it Changes Every Day) | Bon Appétit

"Only one salad is offered on the menu—simply called “salad”—priced at $12, generous enough to share, and ever-changing, yet consistently ranked among the best salads the writer has had. While the pizza itself is exceptional, the greens are what linger: examples include a little-gem and cherry-tomato mix with a creamy, herb-tangled vinaigrette and impeccably crunchy lettuces that make the tomatoes pop like candy; a plate of greens and radishes dressed with thinned ricotta, olive oil, honey, homemade mayo, and chives; and radicchio with tomatoes, cucumbers, and sesame vinaigrette. The salads are crafted by co-owner Marie Tribouilloy, a France native, who follows a flexible formula favoring sturdy bases (radicchio, little gems, Treviso) that can be eaten by hand, a balance of bitter, sweet, and salty components, and the inclusion of a slightly cooked element (blistered tomatoes, fried onions, or lightly charred olives) for texture and layered flavor. Dressings are herb-forward and intentionally opulent—a pool of liquid at the plate’s bottom meant for sopping with crust—and feature double acidity (an aged vinegar or saba in the dressing and a bright squeeze of lemon at finish). Gomasio, a nutty sesame-and-salt powder, is used as a dairy-free, savory accent to lift the greens." - ByPriya Krishna