How Richmond Restaurant JewFro Is Working to Bring Together Two Local Histories | Bon Appétit
"Opened as a pop-up after 2020 and launched as a brick-and-mortar in late 2021 in Shockoe Bottom, this project was conceived by William “Trey” Owens as a personal and political effort to bridge Black and Jewish communities; co-owners include Jewish chef Ari Augenbaum and Nar Hovnanian. The kitchen pairs foods from across Africa and the Jewish diaspora, reimagining classics—pastrami on rye topped with a ras el hanout–spiced slaw, latke crisps and mustard boosted with Ethiopian mulled honey wine; South African peri‑peri chicken served on a fluffy braided challah with awaze; a gefilte fish crudo of rockfish with horseradish foam, pickled shaved carrots and roasted beets; pan-fried whitefish chambo; Ghanaian peanut soup; and a chopped liver riff made with foie gras. Situated in a neighborhood steeped in the city’s fraught Black–Jewish history, the concept intentionally provokes conversation and education (the menu even includes a glossary for terms like kishka and dukkah), aiming to remind diners of familiar flavors while reframing their origins. Popular with locals, described as unapologetically Black and soulful, and already planning a second location in Raleigh, the restaurant uses food as a catalyst for dialogue, historical reflection, and cross-cultural understanding." - ByEric Ginsburg
