You Need to Know Ashley Rath, the Powerhouse Chef Behind The Grill | Bon Appétit
"Housed in the gilded, mid-century–opulent revamp of the Four Seasons, this high-wattage restaurant pairs a pristine white kitchen and obsessive service rituals—pen lasers are even used to align silverware—with a Mad Men–era dining room frequented by men in suits and expense-account dinners. Under chef de cuisine Ashley Rath the menu delivers refined classic Americana: a truffle-coated guinea hen that Pete Wells called "one of the most delicious things I’ve eaten this year," a golden-brown crab cake brimming with tender crab crowned by crisp potato medallions, an elevated club sandwich with an oozy egg, crackly bacon and house-made white bread, plus steak and anchovy tartare and Lobster à la Newburg. Rath modernized kitschy, nostalgic recipes into lighter, updated versions—a Crab Louis with avocado and a tangy Chicken à la Queen—and favors meat, fat and sauce work with a choose-your-sides approach. Owned by Major Food Group, the room is glamorous and pricey; the kitchen maintains exacting standards and long hours, and Rath is focused on evolving the food while reshaping kitchen culture to improve quality of life and hire more women." - ByPriya Krishna
