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"Pittsburgh may be a pierogi town, but the savory farmer’s-cheese dumpling here belongs to its own category of doughy delight: a single, XXL spoon-tender mound arrives adrift in a delicate fermented chili broth, inspired by the steamed Hungarian túró dumpling and produced only when the laborious fresh cheesemaking allows. Because the accompaniments change with what’s on hand, I advise tacking it on when it appears and pairing it with a glass from the restaurant’s intriguing curated wine list while seated in the wood-paneled bar room beneath the vampish red lamplight." - ByThe Bon Appétit Staff