Salta O Muro

Eater rec.  Vibe check: To go with your meal, order the vinhão — a thick, rustic red wine — traditionally served in malgas, a type of white ceramic bowl. charcoal-grilled fish specialist; unfussy and perfect. Heróis de França Street has become the epicenter of charcoal-grilled fish in Portugal, with what might be the highest concentration of seafood restaurants per square meter in the country. On nearly every corner, a charcoal grill sizzles as fire masters prepare fish sourced from the fish auction less than a mile away. At Salta o Muro (“Jump the Wall,” a nod to its location just behind the docks in a spot that once drew in local dockworkers), António and Palmira Moreira serve hearty caldeiradas (fish stew), octopus rice, and a variety of grilled fish, including cod and sea bass. The space is simple and homey, and the food tastes like something your grandmother might make — if she had access to fish this good.