"Skip the tourist traps in Dubrovnik and get a boat out to sleepy Sipan island. Right at the tip of the peninsula, at the edge of a sun-scorched horseshoe bay, there’s a tiny restaurant called Kod Marka. There’s just one waiter, only a handful of tables, no sign, no menu—just whatever was plucked fresh out the sea that morning, drizzled with olive oil and lemon and served on a huge silver platter. Paper tablecloths flutter in the salty breeze and delightful owner Dino brings over jug after jug of his homegrown wine. Come off-season, and there’s nothing else here but a few beaten up Citroëns and a pair of old men dozing quietly on a bench nearby."