The Menhaden

The Menhaden

"Why book?If you're booking a room at the Menhaden, it might be because it's the only boutique hotel with a rooftop bar on Long Island’s North Fork. Or it might be because you're in town to do some wine tasting—a worthy reason to spend a weekend on the North Fork, particularly in the fall, when grapevines turn buttercup yellow and soft purple, the air crisps, and the latest vintage is being bottled. Visiting breweries, traversing lavender farms, going sailing, shopping for antiques, and slurping oysters are also very good reasons visit Greenport and plan a stay at the Menhaden. Set the scene:The crowd is made up of weekending, responsibility-fleeing New Yorkers, but vacationers aren’t the hotel’s only clientele. Business travelers have taken to booking stays throughout the year to hold meetings, small conferences, and cocktail receptions. The backstory:The Menhaden was completed in 2018, and sits on the former site of one of Long Island’s first hotels, the Peconic House. The property, which was such a vibrant gathering place in its heyday, was vacant for years until its new occupant popped up. When the Menhaden was being built, artifacts like bricks, bottles, horseshoes, and the mast from a Greenport whaling ship were discovered and excavated. (The Menhaden belongs to the Meyer Jabara Hotels portfolio, which owns, operates, or leases 30 hotels and 20 restaurants in the eastern United States.)The rooms:Like staying in a guest room at your tasteful, rich aunt’s beach house. The palette is black and white—sometimes with stripes—and always looks as though a fresh coat has been applied. Room keys come in unbleached paper envelopes stamped with the hotel’s fish logo (“menhaden,” also called bunker fish, are of historical importance to the area because, as mentioned in the case of Macari Vineyards, they're used to fertilize the land). The large windows in my room had views filled with the yellow and golden leaves of ash trees, whose colors are even brighter in the rain, and views of the harbor. You might find curated items like a miniature hard-cover copy of *Moby Dick* propped up on the nightstand to wind down with. A communal galley on each floor is equipped with a coffee maker and a fridge stocked with goodies. Pastries are delivered there each morning, as if they’ve magically appeared and are simply waiting to be snatched up and devoured. Food and drink:After you’ve stolen one of those croissants around the corner from your room, head downstairs to the hotel’s “general store,” a light-filled, comfy coffee shop with plush seating, magazines, cool pantry goods for sale on the shelves, and an espresso bar, which serves drinks in clear glass mugs that show off the artful layers of a cappuccino. When it’s time to switch to alcohol, head up to the roof deck for rosé and oysters, to watch a sunset over the harbor, or to warm up around a fire pit.The neighborhood/area:Known for its wineries, farms, bluffs, coves, lighthouses, and pebbled beaches, the North Fork is more laid back than its South Fork counterpart (the Hamptons, Montauk, etc.) Greenport, where the Menhaden is located, is in a word bucolic, particularly during the time of my visit in late October. This is when the crowds are few but the local community gets out-and-about to enjoy the fall season. A floral artist nearby, Nathaniel Savage, was arranging dried magnolia branches in his shop White Flower Farmhouse, while One Kourt Studio wine shop owner Kimberly Ruth was emerging from the frigid sea first thing in the morning with her fellow North Fork Polar Bears—she says it’s a transformative way to start her day. There are many vineyards to choose from on the North Fork, but nearby Macari Vineyards is notable for having 500 acres on the breezy Mattituck waterfront and a gorgeous tasting room. They also stand out for their biodynamic farming methods—a challenging approach in the Northeast with its unpredictable weather. They're pesticide- and herbicide-free, they work the land with horses and cows, and they fertilize the soil with local compost, including dead fish. They've also opened a new venue with a wine bar, called Meadowlark, which can be booked for weddings.  For my trip, I traveled from Brooklyn to the North Fork via the Hampton Jitney, a dedicated bus with three routes from Manhattan to Long Island. (Some may remember its appearance on Gossip Girl or Sex and the City.) I took the subway to Grand Central to catch the Jitney at 41st Street and Lexington Avenue, and got off in Greenport, the final stop. The Menhaden is a five-minute walk from the bus station. Door to door from Brooklyn, my trip took three-and-a-half hours.The service:The service here is casual and comfortable; attentive, thoughtful, and anticipatory, as if a graceful person who knows you well is simply being hospitable. A digital concierge sends visitors a welcome text the day before check-in, anticipating needs by asking if directions or recommendations are needed. Upon arrival, they text the WiFi credentials and make clear that they're available throughout the stay. You can also ask the concierge to have a picnic set arranged for you to pick up at the aforementioned general store/coffee shop, or to schedule a bike tour.Accessibility:The property is wheelchair accessible, has elevators, and offers rooms with accessibility features that can be selected when booking. Two ADA-approved rooms have accessible entry, mobility features, and bathrooms with roll-in showers, grab bars, accessible towel bars, and a shower seat upon request. These two rooms also accommodate service animals.Anything left to mention?Activities are offered on the roof deck depending on the day, and include morning yoga classes and opportunities to shuck oysters with a local farmer. Don’t under any circumstance leave without ordering, at least once, a bacon egg and cheese on an everything bagel at Goldberg’s Famous Bagels across the street." - Alex Erdekian