"I find Chinatown’s cozy 25-seat Bar Gobo to be the more casual sister to Burdock & Co., balancing inventive seasonal share plates, low-intervention wines, and a love of music. Dishes range from beets with sesame, tofu cream, and kelp to risotto with charred scallions and oyster mushrooms, and a panna cotta with coffee jelly and honey-soaked kumquats. The wine list focuses on natural, low-intervention bottles and the music is celebrated with Hi Fidelity vinyl decks in a space retrofitted for acoustic clarity." - Sara Harowitz