"Inside Les Halles market in Narbonne, in the south of France, a palatial gâteau of ironwork that dates to 1901, some stallside theater is happening. From the counter of Chez Bebelle, proprietor Gilles Belzons—a large wolfish figure who once played rugby for Narbonne—picks up a megaphone and hollers across to the charcutier opposite. In return, he receives two bags of meat, thrown high above the customers and into Belzons's waiting hands, ready to become the next order of steak bavette."
