Chef Karl Holl Reinterprets High Desert Cuisine at Brasada Ranch’s Wild Rye | Eater Portland

"Opening June 20 at 16986 SW Brasada Ranch Road, I see Wild Rye as Chef Karl Holl’s ambitious reimagining of Brasada Ranch’s flagship dining: a season-driven, high-desert–informed restaurant that leans into smoke, char and foraged flavors. The menu is rooted in relationships with local farmers and ranchers and on-property ingredients like juniper berries and sagebrush; if the concept had a signature it would be the juniper-rubbed lamb, in which whole juniper branches are crushed with garlic, shallots, bay leaf and aromatics, rubbed into loin and shoulder to cure, seared with a touch of smoke and then braised in wine (white in warm months, red in winter). Nods to Holl’s foraging appear in dishes like pickled mushrooms atop smoked beef carpaccio, and seasonality will show by swapping peak ingredients into mainstays (for example, halibut in coconut fish broth with asparagus and favas in summer shifting to red curry squash and kale in fall). The over-the-top Fifty Dollar Burger embodies the resort’s opulence—a bone marrow brioche bun (marrow whipped into butter and folded into the dough), an Angus patty, a slice of foie gras torchon, truffle aioli and a dusting of edible gold—and the bar program, conceived with Scott Baird of Trick Dog, emphasizes Oregon-distilled vodkas and gins and western whiskeys with cocktails like the vodka-based Huckleberry Fix and the Oregon Trail Mix Old Fashioned served with cacao-and-nut bark." - Janey Wong