"The themed restaurant is back with Diner Ross. Spiegelworld, the circus company behind DiscoShow in the adjacent theater, leans into a New York City 1970-something vibe to great effect. While it veers away from the Spirit Halloween version of disco, it rather settles into a mythologized New York of yesteryear, a restaurant that one could conceivably stumble into after a night of dancing. While the vibe is fun, chef Anna Altieri takes the food seriously. She skips dinner rolls in favor of popovers like her grandmother used to make, available with butter and jam or Vegas-ified toppings of foie gras and caviar. A dirty martini salad reimagines the drink in a vegetal format, depositing all the salty and fatty pungency of briney olive juice over a stack of Bibb lettuce with blue cheese and tomatoes. And in a world of smash burgers, Altieri goes au poivre route with the burger, coating a bistro-style short rib blend in black pepper, searing it in clarified butter, and layering it with peppery watercress, roasted tart cherries, and Muenster cheese. Burnt orange booths with matching flatware, decade-specific memorabilia, and front-of-house staff clad in paisley and jumpsuits bring it all home. —Janna Karel, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest Best for: Dressing up" - Matthew Kang