An Experimental Chef’s Table Hides Inside an Orange County Strip Mall | Eater LA

"Seated along a white counter overlooking a pizza oven, six diners skip a menu and instead settle into an experimental, intimate tasting experience of a dozen-plus courses that lasts nearly three hours; chefs Zach Scherer and Andrew Adams guide the meal themselves, discussing sourcing and music between dishes. The food is playful and avant-garde — one standout was a pain perdu-style bite of brioche drenched in “corn juice” and topped with Hokkaido uni, the cornstarch-crisped exterior giving the impression of warm, slightly crusty French toast with chilled seaside flavors — and the chefs often lean on seafood (uni, hamachi, occasional raw shrimp despite Scherer’s shrimp allergy) for delicate, distinctive character. Adams brings pastry sensibilities and surprise elements (a sweet squid-ink dessert, creative uses of red pepper in sweets), while Scherer, influenced by restaurants seen on Instagram and by his time at Playground, treats the service like a performance. The seating is scarce and requires an open calendar and wallet ($245 with wine pairings), reservations via Tock, and an open mind: it’s intimate, a little messy and chaotic, and aimed at diners looking for something different rather than repeated umami hits." - Jenn Tanaka