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"At Lucy Silva’s backyard restaurant in Corona I watched colorful plates arrive in quick succession until they threatened to overtake the outdoor table: steaming birria tacos with tortillas red and softened from a dip in the cooking consomé, tacos al vapor, enchiladas, café de olla and buñuelos. Dining is limited to a single large patio and the kitchen is out in the open air—a retro suburban four-burner stove, a discada for tacos, a fridge, and a homemade pizza oven—where Silva and her daughters cook, run orders, and talk with customers at socially distanced tables. The operation is a licensed home restaurant under AB-626 (Riverside County approval after a permit process from October 2019 to January 2020), and Silva converted a corner lot with a front-yard garden and flagstone patio into a cozy, colorful setup with half a dozen tables, string lights and multiple sinks; after an earlier anonymous-tip crackdown she used a commissary and a $1,000 United Way grant to come into compliance and make the business official." - Farley Elliott
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