"Set like an amphitheater off a hotel lobby, this dramatic counter led in spirit by Keiji Nakazawa combines theatrical showmanship with inventive Edomae techniques and aging experiments. The dim, wood-framed room and focused lighting create suspense while an engaged team (with a translator and an attentive junior chef, Yasushi Zenda) presents a tightly paced two-hour omakase of two dozen or so dishes. Standouts include yuzu-flecked Shigoku oysters, a sashimi trio showcasing regional and local fish, flame-skimmed scallop nigiri, a chawanmushi dotted with multiple roes, outrageous ankimo with pickled watermelon, and playful local touches such as a roll with ankimo, dried pineapple, and avocado. Patrons can also request aged items (e.g., 10-day-aged yellowtail) that intensify texture and flavor; seats are highly sought after and the tasting runs about $300 per person." - Bill Addison